Brent Veitch recently ventured into bear country in central British Columbia with his best friend, Chris Marte.
This time rather than hiking up into the high country, Brent and Chris took a different and more risky approach. They canoed down the Torpy River located east of Prince George.
Friday, June 17th my best friend Chris and I left Mission around 8:00pm heading north to Prince George. It was a long night of driving until finally we rolled into town at approximately 6:00am after stopping for a nap and eating a hearty breakfast. We met up with the owner of Northern Trans-matic, Shane, and his wife Phylis, who were going to show us the way to the Torpy River. This would be the starting point of our unforgettable journey.
Plans took a slight detour after we arrived. Instead of our original plan, we decided to canoe across Pass Lake and access the Torpy River from its mouth without knowing how passable the Torpy was from that point. Chris and I decided we would chance it and start at the lake anyways, after all adventure involves a little bit of risk of the unknown! And besides after a long night of driving, a canoe paddle on a beautiful lake would be relaxing before we tackled the rapids. Little did we know this was the calm before the storm! That night we enjoyed a crackling campfire thanks to Shane who was nice enough to cut down a tree and buck it up for us.
The next day we decided to explore. Chris had seen a sign off the logging road marking a trail head so off we went, me packing my camera and Chris armed with a shotgun (just incase). We hiked about 3.5 km up the mountain and started hitting snow. As we had not seen much sign of bear, wolf or moose we decided to turn back and explore some of the lower roads. We managed only to see some grouse. Now it was time to head out on the water and explore our environment from a different perspective. It didn't take long to find a beaver swimming across the lake with a branch in its mouth. Later on during our second quiet night around the campfire, I was startled by a noise coming from right behind me! If it wasn't a mouse chewing a hole into my pack! It only took the little feller a few seconds!
On day 3 Chris and I headed out across the lake towards the river and the unknown. It was raining just as we left so we got on our rain gear and headed off. It rained on and off all morning. After some time, Chris said, "It would be nice to see a bear." and I replied, "Or a moose." and not 10 seconds later Chris spotted a moose across the lake. We paddled over staying down wind. The moose saw us, but couldn't smell us. At first she was uneasy, but soon realized we weren't a threat and began eating and doing what moose do. After 10 or 15 minutes we moved on with the moose undisturbed. My thought that a canoe would be ideal for getting close to wildlife to photograph them was bang on! As we continued up the lake and watched as a couple of osprey picked fish from the water. We finally arrived at the far end of the lake and at the mouth of the Torpy River, but our passage was blocked by a log jam. What was an obstacle for us turned out to be a bridge for our wildlife friends! As we paddled closer to the log jam bridge, a coyote appeared from the brush, padded onto the log bridge, had a look around checking us out and then just sauntered off as if we weren't even there.
Now the fun begins as we pull the canoe over the logs and set it back down into the river. We didn't get very far before the canoe met another log across the river and then another. Then the river became too wide and shallow to even float so we had to get out and walk the canoe down the river. By this time the sun was shining and the water from the lake was fairly nice. We arrived at a bridge in the late afternoon and decided to look for a place to set up camp. We found a spot and carried the canoe over old beaver dams and many more logs. When the water was deep enough we just sat on the ends of the canoe and floated down. The camp spot was nice, but the mosquitoes were like I had never seen them before! Lucky for us Chris brought bug screens which were like a long sleeve shirt with a full head screen. Thank God!
On day 4 we got up, packed our belongings and loaded the canoe expecting much of the same on the water as the day before. Boy, were we in for it! It started out much the same, but the water was becoming deeper, so we doing more floating then dragging the boat. Then we heard a sound that could only mean some serious water ahead! As we rounded the corner our little river connected to a much faster and bigger river and that water, being spring run-off, was much, much colder than the one we had been trekking through the previous day. I would say we were getting ready to face class 2 - 4 rapids. Chris and I spent approximately an hour assessing the situation. This was not what either of us was expecting and there would definitely be no picture taking on this river! We decided we would give it a go knowing there is no stopping. Once you go you are committed, there is no turning back! The first shoot went fairly well. We managed to get stopped down river to assess the next set if rapids. Now I know that one of the most important things in these situations is to keep paddling. You have more control than if you don't paddle. That paddle in the water is a wide contact, so it helps you stay right side up. Now having said that, we headed out again, but this time the river made a hard left and we were pushed into a log on the bend. Low branches hit us and then, SMASH! I took a stick, or more like a small tree, to the face knocking me out cold, turning the canoe over and throwing us into the frigid water. Things went from not good to really bad in a split second! Now this part is little blurry for me, but just after I hit that ICE cold water, I came too and my foot jammed between two rocks ripping my shoe off. Chris, behind the boat, was getting tangled in the safety rope. I managed to keep my paddle and catch Chris's paddle as it got close and even grab my shoe and put it on. We headed down a short straight stretch of the river before it got really bad again. Chris managed to dig his feet in and bounce us to shore at one small spot that was our only shot, as I worked the front of the canoe over. Chris pulled it off! Now I know he wouldn't take credit for it, but if he hadn't been at the back of that boat I don't know if I would be here writing this. We flipped the boat back over, unloaded our gear on shore and dragged the boat up.
Very cold, wet and glad to be on land, we assessed the situation. I took off my sun glasses and realized one lens was missing. Bleeding from the mouth, nose and forehead, scrapped and swelling I decided we shouldn't temp fate. We decided to walk out from there, a distance of 22 km's back to the truck. It would be a long walk and, not certain if we could do it in one shot, we packed with us only enough food for the night and the morning plus the tent and essentials. We had our Spot Check transponder with us, but we knew if we transponded before we got to the truck and not on the river, people back home would wonder what happened. People were worried enough already! So we decided to push though. After approximately 16 km's we decided we could make it, but only if we ditched the packs. So with the camera, gun and a water bottle we headed out for the last 6 km's. Now on that walk to the truck we encountered 4 bears, one approximately every 5 km. There were no problems. I got some good photos. The wind was in our favour so the bears didn't smell us. I was able to get some good shots before the bears detected us and retreated into the bush.
Needless to say, on day 5 we were very sore and tired. My face was very swollen and my foot was not much better. Chris, who is not a hiker or even a walker for that matter, was hurting in places he didn't know could hurt after trekking 22km. He just sucked it up. We laughed and had a good day by the river. We even had a bear walk up the road towards us for a little photo shoot, but then we had to go and get the canoe. Now that was going to be ugly! Breaking trail with a 17' canoe and the rest of our gear, most of which was soaked, just added to the weight. So we dug deep and, with no bitching or complaining from either of us, we just did what had to be done! Now that's just one of the reasons Chris and I are such good friends. No matter what, we know the other's got our back. We got the canoe out and headed back to the river to cool off.
After a bite to eat and an ice cold bath in the river we decided to do some fishing. Now I can't catch fish to save my life, but Chris casted 3 - 4 times and next thing you know he's got one nice 12" -14" trout! He let it go and gave me some pointers and then we decided to head for home. On the trip out we saw a bear eating grass up a side road. Again the wind in our favour, there were lots of good shots. When the bear finally noticed us, it ran a few steps and stopped and turned to figure out what we were and if we were a threat. He soon turned and sauntered away. This bear was the best photo I got that trip! With any luck...I'll make him famous!
I would like to thank Shane and Phylis again and Chris Marte for having my back when I needed it most. Another great trip chasing that perfect photo!
Brent Veitch